When using this through a paint mask, how does one prevent chipping at the edges when taking the mask off?
I like to work small on my own truck, and when using a mask with One Shot I don't wait but a little while before removing---in other words the paint hasn't dried yet.
Since HOK dries so fast, and also wanting to do airbrush fades while the mask is still on, I am sort of expecting some problems with edge chipping.
Advice, please.
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
I use a lot of HOK. Never tried it using a mask, but have taped off some pretty large graphics on a semi with no problems. HOK is a urethane, One Shot is an enamel. Take whatever you knew about One Shot and throw it out the window in regards to HOK. EVERYTHING is different from the dry time to the way the colors mix. To slow down the dry time of HOK you have to add more catalyst. I know this is backwards from the way O.S. works but that's the way it is. I'd try a 4:1 paint to catalyst mix and see what happens.
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
I know this isn't the best of photos but I used a mask on the lettering as well as the stipple effect some years back using both HoK and Chromatic and pulled the mask after the paint had dried without problems. Of course I also added the outlines by hand to seal off the edge. I've found doing it this way makes for a cleaner look as it lays down better. The inners are done in HoK and the outlines in Chromatic. At the time I was livingin my shop in Haverstraw only 1 mile from the Chromatic company in Stony Point. Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
I've sprayed a little HOK over a mask and a lot of automotive base coat on a mask. I never had a problem with the paint chipping or lifting at the edge. The only problem I've had is having to spray extra coats or spraying a coat too heavy. The paint starts to attack the mask and the edges can start curling up. Of course paint gets under the mask.
I'm wondering if there is a plotter cuttable paint mask that holds up better than Avery to urethane base paints.
Posted by Bill Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
I use masks all the time with HOK lettering and striping as well as some other automotive paints and masks.
There is a period of time when lifting off a mask where you can tear an edge and this is in a green state where it looks and even feels dry, but hasn't set up enough. You are better off waiting a couple of hours and then pulling off the mask. Use a good mask of course.
I have had the best luck by upping the catalyst like George mentioned but also by adding some retarder and by experimenting. I have noticed if you are doing a 1/2" taped off stripe or greater on say a pickup, you can get a smoother and glossier coat by putting 2 thinner coats down and using a touch of retarder and up to 1 part in 4 catalyst. On the second coat, don't brush back and forth, but using the appropriate size brush lay 'er down and leave 'er alone.
On that type of striping the second coat will re-wet the first, so it is important to not brush back and forth. After the second coat rewets the first you can pull the tape right away, up to a point. I will usually pull the tape in sections depending on temperature and humidity. I'll go from the cab to the bed and pull the tape, and then go the length of the bed and pull the tape then. In other words paint and pull, paint and pull and forget everything you did with 1 Shot, because this is a different kind of paint.
Once you get the hang of it, I doubt you'll go back -- especially if your looking for longevity and a paint that holds up to the abuse of our modern times. Realize this with vehicles -- most folks don't hand wash and wax their vehicles like days of old. They are on the fast track of life and are on to other things. This type of paint assumes that.
I have manage to learn to use HOK with masks in painting on prepainted aluminum panels. I'll do a considerable amount with the mask even using fitches to cover big areas. I'll come in afterwards with outlines and shades with a brush by hand, and then I clear everything almost immediately with urethane clear. If it is something I want whistle smooth, I will then apply more clear and wet sand and buff. The results can be stunning. I have been offering this at a much greater price for customers wanting a longer lasting sign -- longer than hi-performance cast viny.
I've been making little signs for weddings and other special customer requests with HOK and vinyl. I will take a scrap of 1/2" lusterboard and cut a shape out of cast vinyl, mask it and apply it to the lustreboard. Leaving the mask on, I'll cut the shape and sand the edges. I'll then remove the mask and hand letter the vinyl with HOK, because it sticks to the vinyl without prep. I'll then put some marine epoxy on the edges of the lustre board and set it off to dry. After about 4 hours, I'll paint the edge with HOK and set it on a table and clear the piece right awag ... and it is virtually ready to go. Call the customer and tell them it'll be ready to wrap in the morning. Life is good!!!!!!!!!!
