This is topic Please recommend substrate for routed letters in forum Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Mike Estep (Member # 318) on :
 
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I usually get Gemini to make plastic formed letters for jobs like these, but they don't offer this font and I think I can do it myself just as easily. I'll either get my buddy to make these with his router or I can use the old jigsaw, depending on what substrate I decide to use.

The installation is on a corrugated metal building, with the ribs being approximately 12 inches apart.

Rather than mess with the hassle of using metal studs (making and hanging pattern, having holes not line up correctly, etc.) I'm leaning towards putting colored sheet metal self-tappers through the faces at each rib. (Minimum viewing distance is > 50 feet, so they wouldn't be seen.)

My question: Can you recommend a substrate I can use that would be rigid enough to span the ribs of the building without buckling. I would also like to use something that I wouldn't have to paint.

I'm leaning toward:
1). Half-inch LusterBoard from Laminators Inc. or Nu-Alum from Nudo (both basically .015" aluminum sandwiched around .5" MDO). Drawback: I'm not sure how well the MDO would weather
2. 3 mm Dibond. Drawback: Not sure 3 mm is thick or rigid enough.
3. 6 mm AlumaCorr. Drawback: Would want to use edgecap; not so easy with the contour of this design
4. 6 mm PVC sheet. Drawback: Is it glossy enough?

What do you suggest? Should I suck it up, use another substrate and paint?
 
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
 
1. Wood = rot Is longevity a factor?

2. Not sure what size your letters are, but pinned to the building I would think plenty rigid enough.

3. Why use edgecap? From 50 feet you'll never see the core.

4. No! It will end up dull but my main concern is how much PVC expands & contracts. You can't lock this stuff down tight.
 
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
 
Hiya Mike,
I would revisit Gemini and have them laser cut the letters out of their "acrylic". You get a nice, clean product that doesn't need any finishing and it should come with their lifetime guarantee.

Havin' fun,

Checkers

I forgot to add that all you have to do is send them a vector file.

[ March 28, 2007, 01:44 PM: Message edited by: Checkers ]
 
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
 
First Choice. Dibond or Nudo Won't oilcan or buckle.

MDO Nice Thicker look to the letters Edge Seal and paint and will get many years of great service.

I wouldn't use acrylic as it can really expand and contract and break.
Couldn't give me PVC.
Alumacore.. You look at it wrong and it dents.
Lusterboard Nice materal.. Overpriced Still have to edge seal. Have seen it delaminate.

[ March 28, 2007, 03:34 PM: Message edited by: William DeBekker ]
 
Posted by Bill Lynch (Member # 3815) on :
 
Dibond
 
Posted by Cam Bortz (Member # 55) on :
 
I've had the aluminum-clad plywood peel apart like an onion after two years (and yes, I DO know how to seal the edges). All in all, I'd use Dibond. Comes in different colors, cuts easily, is stiff enough for a corrugated wall, won't buckle or dent, doesn't need the edge sealed. Bingo!
 
Posted by Rene Giroux (Member # 4980) on :
 
Substrate??!!?? I suggest that a proper script done by a signwriter be used on any of the material mentioned above !
 
Posted by Dave Draper (Member # 102) on :
 
Our 1st choice would be,

2lb density expanded (or extruded)polystyrene EIFS finished (Drivit) system. (we like very thick letters [Smile] )

then
HDU (PB or Signfoam)coated with stucco finish (the easy way to finish HDU)

then PVC 6mm (but you do have to paint it and for this job 100% acrylic exterior latex (Sherwin Williams Super Paint)
Attention Dave Sherby: We have many jobs in the field with no comebacks or problems. Its the 3mm inch that warps a little.

Then Diabond, an excellent choice also.

There is another product out now that is the knock off of Dibond at much less cost. I think its called Alu-panel and N&F sign supply carriers it.

MDO, MDF, Extera, Plywood, Coroplast, paper, vinyl, glass, plexiglass, mouse pad foam, thrifty white panel, styrene, 040 aluminum, and 1 inch thick steel all bad choices for this job in our opinion. [Smile]
 
Posted by John Arnott (Member # 215) on :
 
This style is so fast and easy to cut yourself. How could you go wrong? No need for a router.Screw through the face and touch up.Use Diebond. Make yourself some quick money!
 
Posted by Michael R. Bendel (Member # 5847) on :
 
Gemini can make a custom formed letter style or shape with splices every 8' I believe.
Why not ask for a quote?

How long is the copy?

Trimcap on plex could work, 1" or 2".
I would avoid anything flat that could warp at a seam over time.

3/4"+ Mdo, 3/4"+ Cintra, 3/4"+ HDU, etc. Really anything rigid will work.

Check out Gemini's custom formed first if your time means a lot to you.
 
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
 
Hiya Mike,
To expand on my last comments, here's how I would normally approach a project like this.
I would send the file to Gemini and have them laster cut the lettering out of 1/4" - 3/4" acrylic. I've used router cut acrylic in the past, but laser cutting is so much cleaner.
When I get the letters back from Gemini, I would print out a paper pattern and cut some strips out of scrap clear 1/4" thick acrylic to make a raceway or 2. The size of the raceways would depend on the height of the letters. The pattern is used to insure proper positioning and spacing, before welding the letters to the raceway with acrylic cement.
From there, I would mount the letters to the building using the raceway, using the appropriate fasteners to insure an adequate install. This way there are very few holes in the building and the installation goes quickly.
I've never had a problem doing installs this way. The letters from Gemini will come with a lifetime warranty, you'll have a happy client and you could make some good money on this job with very little on-site effort.

Havin' fun,

Checkers
 
Posted by Richard Flint (Member # 6602) on :
 
Hi Mike,

Looks like you've had some good response. All the above suggestions would work. I think you should consider the longevity.

MDO - needs a lot of prep and edge sealing and could separate over time.

PVC - will warp in the hot sun.

Dibond - a good choice because it's worked for me on a job simular to yours. Like Cam's says...does not need any prep or painting.

Signfoam - although thicker than Dibond needs a lot of prep and painting but you do end up with a beefer letter that also looks great.

Gimini - great produts from a proven company but again the cost factor for custom formed plastic or trim-cap letters.

Ah, choices for sign people!

Best of luck and let us know what you decide.

Rich.
 
Posted by Don Nelson (Member # 4914) on :
 
Gemini could do that for you very easily via custom formed or laser cut acrylic. We have had no problems with expansion on either product.
 
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
 
That John Arnot allways make me laugh. He's so right about how easy this font would be to cut with a sabre saw. We both have CNC's but I'd probably use the saw, jut to do it. I bet it would be finished in ten minutes.

Installations gotta be a breeze. A few strips of 3M jelly tape and some pop rivits. We cut 3/4" white vinyl circles to cover the rivits.

Don Nelson sure is a good guy and I appreciate his posting on behalf of Gemini. Hope he continues to keep us up to date.
 


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