This is topic Glass etching question in forum Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Greg McRoberts (Member # 3501) on :
 
I'm looking for some advice on etching or blasting glass mugs, etc.

Should you use a lower PSI on glass vs. say, HDU? Glass bead, sand or aluminum oxide? etc. etc.

I have a nice blasting cabinet and wanted to give it a try for a customer of mine.

Thanks in advance for any replys.
 
Posted by Dan Hanson (Member # 4000) on :
 
Greg,

You should be able to blast at a lower PSI than HDU, say 50 or so. Usually, glass beads work well. Sand has the silica issues. Good blasting.
 
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
 
We've been etching glass for about a year now. Don't use sand. First it's too coarse for a nice smooth etch, (did this several times outside) second, indoors it would produce a bunch of toxic free silica inside your shop.

Our blasting media of choice is 150 or 180 grit aluminum oxide or silicon carbide. Silicon carbide costs and lasts about twice as much as aluminum oxide. We tried 220 grit and it was too fine for Rapid Mask by Photobrasive. (A UV exposure blasting film for etching extreme fine detail and even photographs)

To try glass etching you can use regular paint mask vinyl if the letters or graphics are large enough to weed. Itt akes only seconds to frost the glass, slightly longer to carve into the glass.

We run our siphon feed blaster at 90 lbs. A pressure pot for glass etching needs to be run at only 25 to 30 psi. I'm pretty sure that a standard, large, high pressur pot does not work well at low pressure. One model has a locking top so it isn't dependant on the pressure inside the vessel to keep it sealed. Feel free to call me if you need more info.
 
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
 
We use aluminum oxide at about 50-60 PSI for carving - lower pressure to just frost the glass.

For a mask we use Gerber Mask - GM I for general use, and GM II for deeper carving (it holds up well for longer periods)

Just about any vinyl will work - preferably the thicker calendered.
 
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
 
I don't do a whole lot of etching but when I do, I use a Paasche Air Eraser with fine aluminum oxide. The small gun is great for smaller items and if you want to freehand it like an airbrush, you can. The alum oxide leaves a very fine finish.

I typically run about 30-40 PSI, lower if I have a delicate shape cut from masking or if I just need to be a little more careful on a certain job - higher if I want to blast the glaze off a pottery piece.
 
Posted by Greg McRoberts (Member # 3501) on :
 
Wow, thanks for all the replys. It's really appreciated.

I'll just be frosting some type into some jars, so it's pretty easy.

I have a nice pass-through cabinet with a 100# pressure pot. It's been great for doing smaller HDU signs, etc. I just haven't messed around with glass yet

Thanks also to Bob Hines who sent me a separate e-mail on this subject.
 


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