Customer needs this removed, both sides and back door.
It's layered vinyl not a print Posted by Bob Rochon (Member # 30) on :
By the hour, whatever your shop rate is or higher, no fractions of hours either.
I have had vinyl come of lickety split and then I've had it come off in 1/2 inch pieces.
NO one price quote, by the hour ONLY!
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Pay close attention to what Bob said!!!
Posted by Santo (Member # 411) on :
$50/hr. I've got it several times in Lafeyette without a blink after the customer tried himself. I tell them it will need the heat and adhesive cleanup chemicals. The guy decided to do some himself and came backwith road dust all over the adhesive residue and begged me to do something.
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Right on, guys, but don't forget material costs.
Big stuff like this can leave a lotta glue behind and glue remover ain't free. Rapid
Posted by Curtis hammond (Member # 2170) on :
first, try removing some of it. If it comes up in one piece then its gooan be one day. If it breaks up then it will be two days. Been there .. Done that. and I got the trophy.
Posted by Tim Whitcher (Member # 685) on :
I'd charge more than $50.00 an hour. Use your shop rate, add 20% for PITA, add material costs. Did I say I HATE removing vinyl??
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
This looks like a great job to justify buying one of those steamers. Looks like an easy six hour job.
Posted by Myra Grozinger (Member # 327) on :
All of the above, except maybe, if this is a once in a decade kind of job, the steamer is maybe superfluous, it would be in my little operation, which I am trying to wind down, not gear up with new equipment .
After testing how it is coming off - (while the customer is elsewhere) - guess at the high end of this trouble and then quote it by the hours you think it will take. Your hourly rate, plus glue remover cost.
Then call someone you know who can follow directions, and hire them to do it for you.
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
I agree with everyone about charging shop rate...no quotes except that it will be $** per hour.
And then I EXTRA agree with Myra...hire a trainable flunky to help you do the work. (I have done many of these removals, and it is best to actually be there while it is happening)
Posted by KARYN BUSH (Member # 1948) on :
also spend the money and get those rubber eraser wheels you put on your drill...they are $20 a pop...charge your customer..or get a steamer and charge your customer for it...they time it will save you will justify the cost...i hate removal so bad i charge more than my shop rate...if they bulk then its all theirs.
Posted by Pat Phipps (Member # 3617) on :
Man, I see some burned up finger tips in somebody's future. I hate this kind of work.
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
Why not just take the panels off the truck and flip them over? Hmm... they may have done that already. hehe.
Posted by Jeff Spradling (Member # 1615) on :
I agree on the time and materials way to go...I usually give them an idea of not less than this and could be as much as that.
It sounds like you didn’t apply the vinyl...so I would explain it’s an unknown because you don’t known what type and brand of vinyl may have been used.
Hard to say from looking at a photo but I would guess minimum 1-1.5 hrs per side and back and up to 10 -12 hrs for complete clean up if it comes off poorly...plus $60 for materials.
As someone recently suggested, a steamer works great for vinyl removal. We acquired a large commercial style (as opposed to the little hand held) that works great!!!! BUT BE CAREFUL!!! We had some areas on a black trailer that got discolored. We have used the steamer method on about a dozen removals now and it’s a waaaaaay better way to go rather than a heat gun in our opinion.
Hope this helps!!!!
Jeff Posted by Philip Steffen (Member # 2235) on :
Charge your hourly rate, estimate it maybe, then hire some kid at $6 or $7 per hour to do it...if the client isn't watching and realising that he could hire some kid to do it.
Or tell him to hire some kid to do it.
Posted by Mark Perkins (Member # 296) on :
Thanks for all your input guys and gals. I didn't want this to get sidetracked from the start so I didn't mention why it needs to be removed. I did this job last spring using Avery EZ and it has 1.5" of shrinkage in some places, all the vinyl is very wrinkled, even tearing in a few spots. I did try and peel a bit off when my 6'2" 250lb. very ****ed off customer wasn't looking over my shoulder and it looks like it will tear into little bity pieces. I won't redo this for a month or two when the crawfish season ends and the truck isn't busy. Really something to look forward to huh? Posted by Boyd Merriman (Member # 5514) on :
Thanks for reminding me why I like painting signs. You guys really keep me on track!
Seriously... Last year I had to remove some vinyl from a lighted sign and painted new letters on it. Since I didn't have a way to take down the sign, I had to do it up in the sky.
If I remember correctly, I used Denatured Alcohol when the letters refused to come off on it's own by pulling. Fortunately the job wasn't that big. It took me two days to do both sides including the painting.
Boyd
[ April 07, 2005, 01:21 PM: Message edited by: Boyd Merriman ]
Posted by Suelynn Sedor (Member # 442) on :
So, is the customer going to pay you for the removal? Or are you just getting your calculations ready to send into Avery??
Suelynn
Posted by Mark Perkins (Member # 296) on :
I'm putting together a proposal to send to Avery, I was thinking 10 to 12 hours for removal I just wanted to make sure I was in the same time range as most.
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Try the "heat tree lamps" from the bodyshop supply store, they are the absolute fastest, safest and least messy way.
Roger
Posted by Wayne Berry (Member # 1327) on :
Oh man. I have spent many, many hours in the past 30 days removing and replacing Avery vinyl. Most have been the A8.
A word of caution: The adhesive does not behave like regular vinyl. Avery said the problem was with the adhesive so maybe that's why. The ones I've done have been very, very time consuming. On one Ford E250 van we had 19 man hours. That's to remove and replace all the vinyl.
Most of the problems I've had have been with white, black, fire red, sapphire blue, & tangerine.
BTW, I should have bought stock in Rapid Remover. It's good stuff but we sure did use a lot of it.
Good luck and please let us know if Avery does compensate you for your labor & or lost wages. So far I have not had success.
Posted by mike meyer (Member # 542) on :
Hey Mark.......I just re-did 40 pickups for 5 John Deere Dealers that went together and changed their names......I use a Scraper blade from Stanley tools....black handle, make sure the blade is DULL...I then scrape the Vynull off at an angle.....works fast! I then soak a rag with "WilBond" Almost like a Laquer Thinner, keep fresh rags, and srape the excess Glue off with a Squeegee....one final wipe with a clean rag....You are ready to stick more Vynull!
I could strip that truck in lest than an hour.
Where is Eunice Lou-easy-ana? Let's get er done!
Posted by Gene Golden (Member # 3934) on :
Mike Meyer, Looks like there's rivets in that there truck. Does quite a number on those dulled razor blades if you hit'em I agree completely with Mike though. Nothing works better than the burnished razor blade. The trick is to keep it WET, I use Windex, so the blade slides under the adhesive, not through it. A nice, low, sweeping motion will remove most vinyl.
Use 90 or 91% alcohol (from drugstore) nothing lower, nothing higher. That will remove most adhesive afterwards. Some adhesives prefer VM&P Naptha... usually, neither will damage any cured finishes. In some cases you will have to use the blade after you have softened the adhesive residue. Test for remaining adhesive with a pounce bag filled with "line chalk" or charcoal powder!
Use a fine diamond hone to dull the blade, finish with Emery Cloth if needed. It only needs to be dulled enough not to cut your finger (test it on someone else's finger). Make sure the corners are rounded slightly. If it hits something, make sure to check it for a burr. Drag it across your fingernail (I actually test it with my tongue and teeth... not for the squeemish!)
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
You guys really like to work !
I always try to avoid as much of that as possible, I like "workin smart".
I can remember when we used to strip paint jobs with razor blades,first we honed one side of blade by rubbing against levis, then lay that edge down on car and strip at an angle to surfase (lot a work).
Roger
Posted by mike meyer (Member # 542) on :
I ain't afraid of a little work, Roger, not that you are.....It's guys like us that make the "Bosses" look good.....so we went out on our own to "Work Smart" for ourselves. I made damn good moent removing the stickers on those 40 trucks...I've tried all the glue/drill gizmos, the heat, the solvents etc.......the dull razor WORKS. the money I got from my vynull removal job, has paid for the electricity, the DSL connection to be able to tell you this. That's proof!
Gene Golden...I figgered there was gonna be rivets, bring them on TOO!
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Hmm... they may have done that already. hehe.
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