I was just wondering if anything special had to be done to a bug shield to paint it with one-shot. Besides bug and tar remover? It's my first shot at realistic flames and I would hate to see it all fall off because I missed something. Thanks Shane
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
unless 1-Shot has added candy colors to its line-up, the realistic flame scenario is out of the question.
Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
One shot doesnt stand the abuse from the constant pounding of bugs either... Poor choice
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
and there is static electricity...of the plastic & paint to deal with...paint will just jump off the brush..to the plastic....hehehehe
Posted by Jill Marie Welsh (Member # 1912) on :
The last bug shield that I lettered in 1-Shot lasted 5 years, no hardener, no additives, painted straight from the can. But I'm a freak. OP is right about the static. And 1-Shot has changed its recipe since then. Love....Jill
Posted by Jeff Spradling (Member # 1615) on :
Old tip from waaaaaaaay back when I painted...wipe the BACK SIDE of anything plastic with basic rubbing alcohol...static is gone...it's best if you leave it damp...rubbing to dry will recreate the static.
This works good if your painting on those plastic race car front and rear bumper covers too.
Jeff Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Rapid Prep to clean front side, and like Jeff says, "alcohol on back side helps eliminate static" .
Roger
Posted by Randy Campbell (Member # 2675) on :
Ciean lightly-take bounce sheet and rub softly and paint away.
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Huummm, wonder what the "bounce sheet" is saturated with ??
Roger
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Shane,
I'd pass on this one...
One Shot paint doesn't hold up at all on bug deflectors/shields. Plan on seeing it nicked off in no time, especially if your doing airbrush work (light coverage). You can try clearcoating it with One Shot UV or UCO clear to protect it if you absolutely GOTTA do this one, but the risk of liftiing comes into the mix and adds cost as well. Any tru-fire flames will always look better when clearcoated.
my 2.5976259 bits... Rapid
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
Shane, I used to hang out at the truck stop years ago in Montgomery and painted lots of them . . .you could'nt talk them out of it and did'nt even have to explain to a trucker what the bugs are gonna do to it . . .
Some guys wash their trucks everytime they stop it seems . . .at least the windows anyway, and you'll notice, if they really want that thing lettered, they'll keep that bug sheild washed & coated too.
Anyway, after the lettering is good and dry, tell them to keep the bug-sheild armour-alled, or wiped down with any clear 'greasy' thing that they can get like baby oil, vaseline, etc . . . bug will come off easier and the paint job will last a tad longer . . .
~If its a clear bug sheild, remove it and paint it from the back.
I've applied reverse vinyl to them as well... but I realize most of them are 'smokey' coloured these days.
Now for the fun:
Crazy 'handles' you've lettered on bug-sheilds:I recall:
T-BONE Side Winder (several 'PeeWee's) PULPMAN MAC DADDY Good Wood and Wind Jammer
'The bug stops here'
Posted by Tony Ray Mattingly (Member # 469) on :
This works for me as far as static, it does not always eliminate it totally, but seems to make it workable. I take a wash cloth, soak it with water, then just drap it over your plastic as close as possible to where you are working but not close to ruin your work.
Posted by Shane Bennett (Member # 3968) on :
Thanks for all the tips and the cautions and the critiques. Yes he knows about the bugs and yes he does not care. It's for a fire fighter (go figure) and so when I get done I might post a pic. maybe it depends how it turns out :} Thanks again for all your help. I am planing on clearing it. And I'll have to try the static cling trick.
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