We are nearly finished with two name boards for the USCGC Biscayne Bay. They are 12"x52"x1.5" Mahogany carved like a traditional ribon or scroll with gilded letters and varnished. Replacing some plain routered boards that are through bolted to each side of the bridge on about 3/16" steel sheet. I would like to conceal the fasteners, so mounting from the back is a must. So here is the problem this is an ice breaking cutter, ship rams up on the ice and the weight of the ship breaks through or it simply crunches its way along. Our little carved signs will take quite a bit of vibration. Of course the fasteners need to be stainless steel. I thought about epoxy some sort of modified nut in a recess in the back but havn't done anything yet.
All suggestions are welcome.
Thanks John
Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
I'd suggest that you counterbore through the face, and epoxy in ss/flat washers & bolts - covered by plugs cut from the same stock. If the plugs are aligned properly with the grain, they will be practically invisible.
*edit* You can purchase a plug cutter and matching brad point bit at any good woodworking supplier. Make certain the size of your ss/hardware beforehand.
[ January 03, 2005, 09:32 PM: Message edited by: Steve Purcell ]
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
Isn't there a 2 threaded screw which screws into wood and the other end is a bolt? I know I've used these on many projects only once. For some reason I cannot see adding a plug or making a hole filled with an epoxy which could give problems in the long run and who the heck needs problems.
Simple solutions work best Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Joey, the hardware you describe is made from brass and used to mount toilets to the floor.
I'd try having someone hold it in place on the outside and screwing it from the inside with screws that don't break through the surface. I'd also apply a generous coating of silicone adhesive around the perimeter of the back side to further hold it and seal out moisture that could rot the mahogany.
Posted by Cam Bortz (Member # 55) on :
Personally I would worry far less about the bolt heads being visible, than about having a secure fastener that can be removed when the sign needs refinishing - and it will need refinishing! I've done similar carved mahogany signs for ferryboats crossing Long Island Sound, and they are through-bolted in place. On one project the sign had a carved five-point star on each end. The bolt head is in the center of the star, which disguises it rather well, but leaves it accessible for the sign to be removed when necessary.
Posted by John Smith (Member # 1308) on :
Just use hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts and paint the heads brown. From a distance, they will be hardly noticable. Stainless is best but won't hold the paint past the first season. How about posting a photo or two of your craftsmanship??
Posted by Artisan Signs (Member # 3146) on :
How about some nice stainless steel, or brass "acorn nuts" on the outside. A bolted-through application for future removal would be ideal. Stainless steel buffed looks like crome, and lasts a long time.
BTW, I test the gas turbine engines that go into the USCG ice breakers. They are 47,000 shaft horsepower, and are a blast to work on. They use them in place of the standard deisel engines when breaking ice.
Good luck.
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
Rick, a shop I worked in Florida has those screws in stainless and in big sizes too, used them religiously for numerous applications.
Posted by Cam Bortz (Member # 55) on :
Do yourself a favor - use two fasteners, one on each end of the sign, instead of going through the corners. That way the wood can expand instead of splitting.
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