Well here is the first part of the
routed sign that I did
These are the materials; I use
Precision Board and there recommended
bonding glue. In the end of the Panel I routed a grove for the aluminum bar only
as deep as the bar is thick. Notice I left a little on the end; this is so the
bar will not be pushed out by the glue when it expands and it makes the end
I have found that the
PB Bond 240
does not expand as much as the Gorilla Glue. I have not used epoxy but my
experience with epoxy is the short "open" time and that it is very brittle. Also
I found that the latex paint that I use or even oil based paint does not stick
well to epoxy.
The glue is spread with a "squeegee"
over all the area.
Then the mesh is put in place and
also covers over the bar, all the way to the end. I apply a little extra glue on
the edges with the mesh in place. It fills up the holes. The mesh is used in
synthetic stucco. I buy it where they sell supplies for stucco; sold often at
the same place they sell drywall supplies. When blasting HDU the removal of the
material that gives blasted HDU its look causes the material to become flimsy.
Thus the mesh gives the structural support that it needs without mounting it to
a product that it not compatible, could ultimately fail.
The mesh is a fiberglass type mesh
that is used in the base coat between Foam and stucco surface in synthetic
stucco. I glue only one side dry. Presoak the 2nd piece and spray the 1st to
activate...I have found that by gluing both pieces that there is too much glue
and it really makes a mess.
Then the panel is wet to activate
the glue. I have soaked the other panel that will go on top of this one I have
glued, with a water hose to insure the bonding before laminating.
Then the panel is clamped and
weighted down, the glue expands so this is a very important step to insure
proper bonding as well as a possible deformation. Also an important thing is
that the table that you glue using should be flat as it will take on the shape
of the table.
The reason that I glue a bar in the
ends is so that it will not tear when we install. Here is an example of mounting
on brick using angle aluminum, tap coned into the wall and a carriage bolt
through the sign with the interior aluminum bar.
I have heard of many people that are
using MDO or die bond either on the back or in the middle of their HDU signs. In
my experience I have found that this method is superior in strength,
compatibility and weight. I even use this method with one sided sign. I'll use a
thinner panel say 3/4" or 1/2" and then 1.5" or 2" for the front panel, needing
that depth for carving or blasting.